Walk along an artery like Sukhumvit Road; the Skytrain omnipresent above your head, the buildings striking up and down like piano hammers. Ignore the city’s supra-urban excesses, its love for sale, its hovering haze. Look for its ghost houses, the intricacies of its worship, the sensitivity of its wai, its beguilingly balanced cuisine. And it will not be the city imposing its will upon you, but you soaking up its humid vitality until even your hair coils into springs.
The Grand Palace and Wat Pho
